Showing posts with label gardening. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gardening. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 03, 2026

Productive Peaceful and purposeful

June 03, 2026

 



Yesterday was a good day. I spent a whole lot of time gardening. I planted the rest of the sunflowers along the south side of the house. I dug up some daylilies and put them along the south fence where I had put some mulch. I then planted some sunflowers where the daylilies had been, in the bed on the east side of the house. I moved some hosta from under the hammock to by the sliding glass doors. The only problem with the backyard is that I cannot get the hose to reach the bed on the east side. I suppose I will have to use the sprinkler.

I will be mad if none of the sunflowers come up. I have put such careful effort into planting them. I had a shoot the day before yesterday, and yesterday it was gone. My little bottomless pots looked like someone had gone digging in them looking for seeds. :(  I planted at least a thousand a year ago and none of them grew.  Yet the volunteers grow under the bird feeder...

I have ordered some cosmos seeds for the front. They are my absolute favorite. I also ordered a book and some licorice for Friday, my last day of school. I sent Den a couple of books for her birthday. All Quiet on the Western Front is my book of the year. I also sent her a Jill Mansell book that I ordered for myself. I love Jill Mansell, and it looks like she has written some new books. I read her first one, which was about a wedding and was really funny. She does touching romantic comedy.

 It was a day of visible progress. I moved plants, made choices about beds, adjusted the yard, planted seeds, and continued turning the garden into something intentional.

I can be disappointed if the sunflowers do not come up without making that mean the effort was wasted. Gardening always includes negotiation with squirrels, weather, soil, timing, and whatever invisible gremlin raids the bottomless pots.


How to Plant Seed Bombs

June 03, 2026

 


Plant seed bombs by treating them as wildflower experiments, not precision seeds. A seed bomb is usually made of seeds mixed with clay, compost, or soil. The outside material is meant to break down with rain and watering so the seeds can reach the ground and start growing.

1. Choose bare soil, not thick grass or mulch.
Seed bombs need contact with actual soil. If they are sitting on top of mulch, thick grass, or weeds, the seeds may not reach the dirt. Mulch acts like a soft roof between the seed and the soil. The seeds might dry out, sprout weakly, or never grow at all.

2. Pick a sunny spot.
Most wildflower seed mixes need at least six hours of sun a day unless the package says they are for shade. Sun gives the seedlings the energy they need to grow strong stems, leaves, and flowers. A shady spot may still grow something, but the results will usually be weaker.

3. Move the mulch aside first.
If you want to plant seed bombs in a mulched bed, do not just toss them on top. Move the mulch aside in a small patch, about 6 to 12 inches wide. This gives the seeds a clear path to the soil instead of making them fight through mulch.

4. Loosen the soil a little.
You do not need to dig a deep hole. Just scratch up the top inch of soil with a rake, trowel, or hand rake. This helps because seeds grow better when they can settle into loose soil instead of sitting on a hard crust.

5. Place the seed bomb on the soil and press it down gently.
Pressing it down helps the seed bomb make good contact with the soil. Do not bury it deeply. Many wildflower seeds need light to germinate, so burying them too far underground can stop them from growing.

6. Crumble it slightly if it is large.
If the seed bomb is big, break it apart a little before pressing it into the soil. This spreads the seeds out and gives more of them a chance to touch the ground. It also keeps too many seedlings from trying to grow in one crowded clump.

7. Water it well.
Water helps soften and break down the clay or compost around the seeds. It also gives the seeds the moisture they need to begin germinating. After that, keep the area lightly moist until things sprout. The soil should feel damp, not swampy.

8. Leave the mulch pulled back until the seedlings are established.
Once the seedlings are a few inches tall, you can carefully tuck a little mulch around them, but not over them. This helps hold moisture in the soil without smothering the baby plants.

9. Mark the spot.
Use a stick, stone, label, or little border so you remember where you planted them. This matters because tiny wildflower seedlings can look like weeds at first. Marking the spot helps you avoid pulling them up or mowing them down by accident.

10. Treat the whole thing as an experiment.
Seed bombs are not exact gardening. Some seeds may grow, and some may not. Weather, sun, soil, birds, squirrels, and timing all have opinions. The goal is to give the seeds a good chance, not to do it perfectly.

For my garden, the south side of the house along the neighbor’s driveway could work if it gets enough sun and will not be mowed. I should plant only some of the seed bombs there first and save a few for Dr. Cho’s or another bare sunny patch.

Best timing is spring or fall. Since I am planting now, it would be smart to do it before a rainy stretch. Rain will help break down the seed bombs and keep the soil moist.

Simple version:
Do not toss seed bombs on top of mulch unless I am just experimenting. For the best results, I should make little bare-soil pockets, scratch the soil, press the seed bomb in, water it, and keep the mulch away until the seedlings are growing.

Tuesday, June 02, 2026

Turk’s Cap Lily by the Front Door

June 02, 2026

 




This is a beautiful Turk’s cap lily, most likely a hybrid of martagon lily or a closely related woodland lily. It is in the front of my house, in the garden to the left of the front door.

I love the swept-back petals that curl like tiny flames, the dangling flower shape, and the freckles scattered across the petals like somebody flicked cinnamon paint at them. The color is especially lovely too: dusty pink mixed with apricot and gold, which gives it that antique botanical-illustration feeling.

These lilies are often called “Turk’s cap” because the petals curl backward so dramatically that they resemble old Turkish-style turbans. Unlike big trumpet lilies that face outward, these flowers nod downward and curl back, which helps protect the pollen from rain.

They are also pollinator magnets. Butterflies and bees treat them like an all-you-can-eat brunch buffet. Martagon-type lilies are more shade tolerant than many other lilies because they evolved along woodland edges rather than in blazing open prairie sun.

They can also be surprisingly long-lived once established. Some clumps quietly persist for decades, like elegant garden ghosts.

The tall stems and narrow leaves in whorls up the stem are classic lily architecture. This plant looks very healthy. The leaves are glossy and upright, and the flower count suggests it is settled and happy where it lives.

One important note: true lilies are highly toxic to cats. Even pollen or vase water can be dangerous. Dogs are less vulnerable, but cats and lilies are a genuinely bad combination.

I am glad this one is by the front door. It feels like a little botanical greeting: strange, elegant, freckled, and quietly dramatic.

Monday, May 25, 2026

A good day at Dr. Cho’s dental office.

May 25, 2026

  



Not all days are good days in the garden. Sometimes things look pretty rough, but right now everything is blooming nicely. Here you can see orange Asiatic lilies, daylilies, purple salvia, Snow-in-Summer, ornamental alliums or walking onions, garden phlox, and iris foliage. There may also be some Silver Mound artemisia mixed in with the Snow-in-Summer.

The orange Asiatic lilies are the dramatic stars of the bed. They grow upright with glossy leaves climbing the stems like little green ladders. Asiatic lilies are hardy perennial bulbs and usually bloom in early to midsummer. They like full sun to part sun and average watering, especially during dry spells. After they bloom, I can deadhead the spent flowers, but I should leave the green stems until they yellow naturally because the bulbs are recharging. Mulch helps keep the roots cool, and they can be divided every few years if they become crowded.

Important note: lilies are extremely toxic to cats, even the pollen.

The purple salvia is probably ‘May Night’ salvia. Salvia is an absolute pollinator magnet. Bees treat it like a tiny airport terminal. It likes full sun and is drought tolerant once established. If I cut back the flower spikes after the first bloom, I may get a second flush of flowers. It can also be divided every few years if it starts to get woody in the middle.

The daylilies are almost indestructible. They spread steadily and thrive in Indiana gardens. They like sun to part sun and moderate watering. I can remove the spent flower stalks to keep them tidy, and divide them every four or five years if they start flowering less.

The white and silver mounds in front are Snow-in-Summer  mixed with Silver Mound artemisia. They add a soft, silvery edge to the bed and make the bright flowers stand out even more. Snow-in-Summer likes sun and well-drained soil. It can spread, so I may need to trim it back when it gets too enthusiastic. Silver Mound artemisia also likes sun and good drainage and does not want wet feet.

The upright onion-like clumps with round buds look like ornamental alliums or walking onions. They add excellent vertical texture, like little garden exclamation points. They prefer full sun and well-drained soil and are very drought tolerant once established. I should leave the foliage as long as possible so it can feed the bulbs.

There is also garden phlox coming along and iris foliage adding height and structure. Even when the irises are finished blooming, their leaves still help hold the shape of the bed.

This is the kind of garden moment I like: not perfect, not finished, but full of color, texture, bees, bulbs, and possibility. A dental office garden is not where one necessarily expects drama, but the lilies are absolutely giving a performance.

Monday, July 14, 2025

Bee Balm

July 14, 2025

 Good Morning!

Today Peanut and I head back to Indianapolis—to restore order in the garden. Word from the pool is that thunderstorms rolled through while I was away. Perfect! That means my flowers have been thoroughly watered by the sky itself—nature doing her part while I took a break.

I got an email about a gardening job. I’d absolutely work for her if she paid me in hostas! Honestly, that’s not a joke. I’m always looking to diversify my collection. And I love the idea of being someone’s “garden whisperer”—but only if it feels good in my soil.


Earlier in the day, we drove to Okemos.I picked up a small rock from a parking lot. I think I’m starting a new ritual: collecting rocks from places that matter, then placing them in my garden at home. Each one can root a memory. Eric and I and the dogs walked through the field where I used to wander in high school. That land is sacred to me. I remember playing with Daisy there—how she’d leap like a gazelle above the tall grass to find me when I’d hide. I met Jen there too, and we’d walk and talk, surrounded by wild prairie.

Now, that field is a designated nature reserve. The same trails. Bigger trees. More blooms. 

Here is some bee balm! This North American native grows in bunches and shoots up these wild-looking, spiky flowers that look kind of like tiny fireworks.  Planting beebalm is super easy - just give it some sun (or partial shade works too) and soil that doesn't get too soggy. Here's a cool fact: Native Americans used this plant for medicine, and you can actually make tea from the leaves - they smell amazing, like a mix of mint and citrus. Snip off the dead flowers to keep new ones popping up all summer.

“I plant joy in familiar soil. I walk the trails of memory with reverence. I let roots, rocks, and rest remind me that I am always growing—softly, steadily, in season.”


Saturday, June 07, 2025

How to make seed bombs

June 07, 2025

How to Make Seed Bombs 

  1. Gather Materials: Collect clay, native seeds, compost (or potting mix), and water.

  2. Prepare Surface: Lay down a surface that you don’t mind getting dirty.

  3. Measure Ingredients: Divide materials into five parts clay, one part compost (or potting mix), and one part seeds.

  4. Mix Clay and Compost: Combine the clay and compost. If the clay is tough, warm it with your hands.

  5. Add Water: If needed, add a drop or two of water to make the mixture pliable, but keep it gritty and dough-like.

  6. Incorporate Seeds: Gradually add the seeds, kneading them into the mixture with your hands.

  7. Shape Bombs: Tear the mixture into pieces the size of a nectarine and roll them into balls.

  8. Dry or Plant: You can either plant the seed bombs while moist or let them dry.

  9. Watering: Once planted, ensure they are watered. The clay will break down, allowing the seeds to grow.

  10. Enjoy the Results: In a few weeks, you should see beautiful plants and flowers.

Note: Seed bombs are a fun way to beautify neglected areas and support the environment by using native plants. 


Tuesday, May 06, 2025

Gardening log

May 06, 2025


I put a bunch of sticks in the trash. I have so many of them, and I am never going to have enough fires to burn them all. I do not enjoy the pile of sticks. Evan made a pile of sticks in the back that I hated looking at, and now Eric has done the same. I turned Evan's pile into a flower bed by covering it with leaves and mulch and then planting flowers. These sticks are in a place that is too shady for flowers to grow, so I have to get rid of them.

Yesterday, I weeded a lot. Today, I am going to plant some more ground cover. Next week, I will plant on Monday. I still have to trim the tree in the passage and mow the neighbor's grass strip. I will not be bored. 

Saturday, June 06, 2015

Monday, March 10, 2014

Indiana native plants

March 10, 2014
From http://www.indianawildlife.org/wildlife/native-plants/

Native Trees

EVERGREEN:

Eastern Red Cedar, Juniperus virginiana
Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis
White Pine, Pinus strobus

DECIDUOUS:

Common Hackberry, Celtis occidentalis
Tulip Poplar, Liriodendron tulipifera
Shagbark Hickory, Carya ovata
Red Maple, Acer rubrum
Oaks, Quercus (all spp.)
White Walnut or Butternut, Juglans cinerea
Redbud, Cercis canadensis
Black Gum, Nyssa sylvatica

Native Shrubs

Common Serviceberry, Amelanchier arborea
New Jersey Tea, Ceanothus americanus
Spicebush, Lindera benzoin
Common Ninebark, Physocarpus opulifolius
Fragrant Sumac, Rhus aromatica
Elderberry, Sambucus canadensis
Gray Dogwood, Cornus racemosa
Silky Dogwood, Cornus amomum
Virginia Sweetspire, Itea virginica
Common Winterberry, Ilex verticillata
Buttonbush, Cephalanthus occidentalis
American Highbush Cranberry, Viburnum opulus var. americanum
Elderberry

Native Vines

Trumpet Creeper
Virginia Creeper, Parthenocissus quinquefolia
Trumpet Creeper, Campsis radicans

Grasses


Indian Grass
Native Grasses
Switch Grass, Panicum virgatum
Indian Grass, Sorghastrum nutans
Little Bluestem, Schizachyrium scoparium
Big Bluestem, Andropogon gerardii
Northern Seaoats, Chasmanthium latifolium

Native Nectar Plants

Nearly every blooming tree, shrub,
perennial, or annual will provide some
nectar for butterflies and other insects.
This list includes favorites in many
habitats:
Redbud, Cercis canadensis
Flowering Dogwood, Cornus florida
Blue Wild Indigo, Baptisia australis
Butterfly Weed, Asclepias tuberosa
Wild Bergamot, Monarda fistulosa
Wild Columbine, Aquilegia canadensis
Foxglove Beardtongue, Penstemon digitalis
Rough Blazing Star, Liatris aspera
Purple Coneflower, Echinacea purpurea
Showy Goldenrod, Solidago speciosa
New England Aster, Aster novae-angliae
Common Spiderwort, Tradescantia ohiensis
White Aster

Butterfly Larva Food Sources
Nectar only meets part of butterflies' food requirements. Many species lay their eggs only on specific plants, and to keep these butterflies in your habitat, one needs to provide larval, or caterpillar, food as well.
Monarchs are common and particularly interesting butterflies. Their migration to Mexico can be followed on Monarch Watch. Attract them to your yard with their specific larval food, any of five kinds of Milkweed: common, showy, swamp, butterfly weed, or annual Blood Flower.

Pesticides ravage butterflies, their eggs, and caterpillars when sprayed on flowers, trees, shrubs, and lawns. Try to accept some damage on your leaves rather than using harmful chemicals.

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Emma, emma, in a dilemma

July 22, 2008
how does your garden grow... with Daisies and cone flowers,

peonies

and day lilies

laestra

black-eyed susans, ...







and gladioli all in a row...

How Does Your Garden Grow

How does your garden grow…
With daisies and coneflowers,
Peonies
And daylilies,
Laestra,
Black-eyed Susans…

And gladioli all in a row.