English Emma Blooms

This time, I am also going to plant some at the dentist’s office. My hope is that they will fill in the space, add some pretty white flowers, and help crowd out some of the weeds there.

Here is my plan:

I will plant onion sets in the fall, about 4–6 weeks before the ground freezes.

I will plant them:

• Pointy-end up

• About 1 inch deep

• 3–4 inches apart

• In a sunny spot with good drainage

After the weather turns consistently cold, I will put a light layer of mulch over them to give them a little protection through the winter.

I will plant more onions than I actually need because some of them may not survive the winter. That is okay! This is partly an experiment.

I am going to plant a mixture of white, yellow, and red onion sets and let whatever survives grow and bloom next year.

Normally, gardeners do not particularly want their onions to flower because flowering takes energy away from producing a nice big onion bulb.

I don't care about the onions! I want the flowers!

So I am doing onion gardening backwards.

If everything goes according to plan, next summer I should have another collection of those tall stems topped with beautiful little balls of white flowers—and hopefully fewer weeds to pull at the dentist’s office.

Sometimes the best gardening discoveries are the things I did on purpose and then liked even more than I expected.

I am also thinking of planting leeks. I might do that soon!

The seven plants to divide:

• Daylilies
• Bearded iris
• Shasta daisies
• Siberian iris
• Garden phlox
• Coneflowers
• Black-eyed Susans

The general method is to water the plant the day before, dig around the whole clump, lift it carefully, divide it into healthy sections, remove old or woody centres, and replant each section at the same depth. Water the new divisions thoroughly and add a light layer of mulch, but do not cover the crowns.

After dividing, keep the plants consistently moist for several weeks and wait until spring to fertilize heavily.

General method:

1. Water the plant deeply the day before.
2. Dig widely around the clump to avoid damaging roots.
3. Lift the whole clump.
4. Divide it with a sharp spade, fork, or knife.
5. Remove old, woody centres.
6. Keep healthy sections with roots and shoots.
7. Replant immediately at the same depth.
8. Water well and mulch lightly.
9. Keep the divisions moist for the first few weeks.
10. Do not fertilize heavily until spring.

Plant-specific details:

• Daylilies: Cut foliage to about 6 inches, lift the clump, pull or cut it into sections with healthy roots and several fans, then replant.
• Bearded iris: Dig up the rhizomes, discard old woody centres, keep young firm rhizomes, trim leaves to 6 inches, and replant with the rhizome at the soil surface.
• Shasta daisies: Lift the clump, cut it into smaller sections, and replant 12–18 inches apart.
• Siberian iris: Lift the clump, cut the dense root mass apart with a sharp spade, and replant at the same depth.
• Garden phlox: Wait until flowering is finished, dig up the plant, slice the root ball into sections, and replant with plenty of space.
• Coneflowers: Lift the plant with a sharp spade, divide it into pieces with strong roots and stems, and replant in well-drained soil.
• Black-eyed Susans: Lift mature clumps, cut them into smaller sections with a garden knife, and replant in full sun.

Instructions for a Stressed or Possibly Diseased Lily

Yesterday was a good day. I spent a whole lot of time gardening. I planted the rest of the sunflowers along the south side of the house. I dug up some daylilies and put them along the south fence where I had put some mulch. I then planted some sunflowers where the daylilies had been, in the bed on the east side of the house. I moved some hosta from under the hammock to by the sliding glass doors. The only problem with the backyard is that I cannot get the hose to reach the bed on the east side. I suppose I will have to use the sprinkler.

I will be mad if none of the sunflowers come up. I have put such careful effort into planting them. I had a shoot the day before yesterday, and yesterday it was gone. My little bottomless pots looked like someone had gone digging in them looking for seeds. :(  I planted at least a thousand a year ago and none of them grew.  Yet the volunteers grow under the bird feeder...

I have ordered some cosmos seeds for the front. They are my absolute favorite. I also ordered a book and some licorice for Friday, my last day of school. I sent Den a couple of books for her birthday. All Quiet on the Western Front is my book of the year. I also sent her a Jill Mansell book that I ordered for myself. I love Jill Mansell, and it looks like she has written some new books. I read her first one, which was about a wedding and was really funny. She does touching romantic comedy.

 It was a day of visible progress. I moved plants, made choices about beds, adjusted the yard, planted seeds, and continued turning the garden into something intentional.

I can be disappointed if the sunflowers do not come up without making that mean the effort was wasted. Gardening always includes negotiation with squirrels, weather, soil, timing, and whatever invisible gremlin raids the bottomless pots.

At Holmesdale Road, I liked to make perfume out of my mum’s roses. At 122 Ouklip Street, I would wonder at the bottlebrush plants, and I would sweep my imaginary dirt garden. It was just all dirt and no flowers due to South African drought. At Oakhall Park, I was in charge of gardening, and I nurtured the violets and tied down the daffodils.

In college, I planted a bunch of flowers at 206 South Third Street that then had a deck built over them. I loved the daylilies on Haverford Avenue, and I started planting my garden in 2000! Now it is a beast.

I spent two hours gardening yesterday. I weeded, planted sunflowers, planted other seeds, tied back daffodils, applied fertilizer, moved mulch, and mowed the lawn. Today, I am weeding Dr. Cho’s with Peanut. Laura is supposed to call around 5:45.

I am worried about planting the seed bombs. I am worried that I will do it wrong, and I am worried that I will plant them in the wrong place. At the moment, I am thinking along the side of the house, in the garden on the south side, along the neighbor’s driveway.

On Sunday, Jennifer and I went to a plant festival at the park. It was kind of annoying because we had to pay $9 to get in. Last year it was free. Oh well. They had some great plants, but I have more. Evil laugh. I could make a lot of money if I sold my plants, which I am not going to do. I wonder if my flowers will be taken into consideration when valuing the house in the future. The new generation is coming up, and they like and value plants.

1. Choose bare soil, not thick grass or mulch.
Seed bombs need contact with actual soil. If they are sitting on top of mulch, thick grass, or weeds, the seeds may not reach the dirt. Mulch acts like a soft roof between the seed and the soil. The seeds might dry out, sprout weakly, or never grow at all.

2. Pick a sunny spot.
Most wildflower seed mixes need at least six hours of sun a day unless the package says they are for shade. Sun gives the seedlings the energy they need to grow strong stems, leaves, and flowers. A shady spot may still grow something, but the results will usually be weaker.

3. Move the mulch aside first.
If you want to plant seed bombs in a mulched bed, do not just toss them on top. Move the mulch aside in a small patch, about 6 to 12 inches wide. This gives the seeds a clear path to the soil instead of making them fight through mulch.

4. Loosen the soil a little.
You do not need to dig a deep hole. Just scratch up the top inch of soil with a rake, trowel, or hand rake. This helps because seeds grow better when they can settle into loose soil instead of sitting on a hard crust.

5. Place the seed bomb on the soil and press it down gently.
Pressing it down helps the seed bomb make good contact with the soil. Do not bury it deeply. Many wildflower seeds need light to germinate, so burying them too far underground can stop them from growing.

6. Crumble it slightly if it is large.
If the seed bomb is big, break it apart a little before pressing it into the soil. This spreads the seeds out and gives more of them a chance to touch the ground. It also keeps too many seedlings from trying to grow in one crowded clump.

7. Water it well.
Water helps soften and break down the clay or compost around the seeds. It also gives the seeds the moisture they need to begin germinating. After that, keep the area lightly moist until things sprout. The soil should feel damp, not swampy.

8. Leave the mulch pulled back until the seedlings are established.
Once the seedlings are a few inches tall, you can carefully tuck a little mulch around them, but not over them. This helps hold moisture in the soil without smothering the baby plants.

9. Mark the spot.
Use a stick, stone, label, or little border so you remember where you planted them. This matters because tiny wildflower seedlings can look like weeds at first. Marking the spot helps you avoid pulling them up or mowing them down by accident.

10. Treat the whole thing as an experiment.
Seed bombs are not exact gardening. Some seeds may grow, and some may not. Weather, sun, soil, birds, squirrels, and timing all have opinions. The goal is to give the seeds a good chance, not to do it perfectly.

For my garden, the south side of the house along the neighbor’s driveway could work if it gets enough sun and will not be mowed. I should plant only some of the seed bombs there first and save a few for Dr. Cho’s or another bare sunny patch.

Best timing is spring or fall. Since I am planting now, it would be smart to do it before a rainy stretch. Rain will help break down the seed bombs and keep the soil moist.

Simple version:
Do not toss seed bombs on top of mulch unless I am just experimenting. For the best results, I should make little bare-soil pockets, scratch the soil, press the seed bomb in, water it, and keep the mulch away until the seedlings are growing.

For the sun flower seeds I am cutting out the bottom of the flimsy pots.  I am putting in the ground.  Adding soil and three seeds and a pencil.  The pot protects from the seeds getting eaten.

 I love the way Peanut, the purple flower, and the yellow flower looked in this picture. Summer must be amazing for Peanut because everywhere sprouts flowers that to him are probably as big as trees are to us. The purple flowers are dame’s rocket (Hesperis matronalis). They are considered invasive in Indiana and across much of the Midwest because they spread aggressively and can crowd out native spring wildflowers, which is probably why you do not really see people selling them openly.

The yellow flower, of course, is a dandelion. I do wonder how the purple flowers got there. 

One little identification note, just because it is useful: dame’s rocket has four petals, while garden phlox has five, which is one of the easiest ways to tell them apart. 

Indiana native plant sources often suggest downy phlox as a good alternative. (Indiana Native Plants Finder)

Star of Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum). They are a bulb plant that pops up in spring, and spread easily, sometimes even aggressively.  They are in my lawn as well but I don't mind as they are beautiful!   Aaron planted them about 25 years ago.   They are part of Aaron I do not mind keeping at my house!

Here are forget-me-nots (Myosotis). I know these are shade-friendly, they self-seed, and they give that soft, woodland feel that I really love.  I have planted some seeds along the new drainage stream. I hope they take!

Allium, an ornamental onion. These are bulbs that come back every year, and they feel structural , tall and very intentional-looking in the garden.  These are probably my favorite and I want to plant more in the fall!

The bright orange cluster flowers are wallflowers (Erysimum). I know they love the sun, have a long bloom time, and act as a strong color anchor in the space.  I would like to grow some more!  They grew from seeds I planted last summer. 

 I have a bulb backbone with the allium and Star of Bethlehem. I have self-seeding spreaders with the forget-me-nots. I also have a color anchor with the wallflowers.