Yesterday was a good day. I spent a whole lot of time gardening. I planted the rest of the sunflowers along the south side of the house. I dug up some daylilies and put them along the south fence where I had put some mulch. I then planted some sunflowers where the daylilies had been, in the bed on the east side of the house. I moved some hosta from under the hammock to by the sliding glass doors. The only problem with the backyard is that I cannot get the hose to reach the bed on the east side. I suppose I will have to use the sprinkler.

I will be mad if none of the sunflowers come up. I have put such careful effort into planting them. I had a shoot the day before yesterday, and yesterday it was gone. My little bottomless pots looked like someone had gone digging in them looking for seeds. :(  I planted at least a thousand a year ago and none of them grew.  Yet the volunteers grow under the bird feeder...

I have ordered some cosmos seeds for the front. They are my absolute favorite. I also ordered a book and some licorice for Friday, my last day of school. I sent Den a couple of books for her birthday. All Quiet on the Western Front is my book of the year. I also sent her a Jill Mansell book that I ordered for myself. I love Jill Mansell, and it looks like she has written some new books. I read her first one, which was about a wedding and was really funny. She does touching romantic comedy.

 It was a day of visible progress. I moved plants, made choices about beds, adjusted the yard, planted seeds, and continued turning the garden into something intentional.

I can be disappointed if the sunflowers do not come up without making that mean the effort was wasted. Gardening always includes negotiation with squirrels, weather, soil, timing, and whatever invisible gremlin raids the bottomless pots.

At Holmesdale Road, I liked to make perfume out of my mum’s roses. At 122 Ouklip Street, I would wonder at the bottlebrush plants, and I would sweep my imaginary dirt garden. It was just all dirt and no flowers due to South African drought. At Oakhall Park, I was in charge of gardening, and I nurtured the violets and tied down the daffodils.

In college, I planted a bunch of flowers at 206 South Third Street that then had a deck built over them. I loved the daylilies on Haverford Avenue, and I started planting my garden in 2000! Now it is a beast.

I spent two hours gardening yesterday. I weeded, planted sunflowers, planted other seeds, tied back daffodils, applied fertilizer, moved mulch, and mowed the lawn. Today, I am weeding Dr. Cho’s with Peanut. Laura is supposed to call around 5:45.

I am worried about planting the seed bombs. I am worried that I will do it wrong, and I am worried that I will plant them in the wrong place. At the moment, I am thinking along the side of the house, in the garden on the south side, along the neighbor’s driveway.

On Sunday, Jennifer and I went to a plant festival at the park. It was kind of annoying because we had to pay $9 to get in. Last year it was free. Oh well. They had some great plants, but I have more. Evil laugh. I could make a lot of money if I sold my plants, which I am not going to do. I wonder if my flowers will be taken into consideration when valuing the house in the future. The new generation is coming up, and they like and value plants.

1. Choose bare soil, not thick grass or mulch.
Seed bombs need contact with actual soil. If they are sitting on top of mulch, thick grass, or weeds, the seeds may not reach the dirt. Mulch acts like a soft roof between the seed and the soil. The seeds might dry out, sprout weakly, or never grow at all.

2. Pick a sunny spot.
Most wildflower seed mixes need at least six hours of sun a day unless the package says they are for shade. Sun gives the seedlings the energy they need to grow strong stems, leaves, and flowers. A shady spot may still grow something, but the results will usually be weaker.

3. Move the mulch aside first.
If you want to plant seed bombs in a mulched bed, do not just toss them on top. Move the mulch aside in a small patch, about 6 to 12 inches wide. This gives the seeds a clear path to the soil instead of making them fight through mulch.

4. Loosen the soil a little.
You do not need to dig a deep hole. Just scratch up the top inch of soil with a rake, trowel, or hand rake. This helps because seeds grow better when they can settle into loose soil instead of sitting on a hard crust.

5. Place the seed bomb on the soil and press it down gently.
Pressing it down helps the seed bomb make good contact with the soil. Do not bury it deeply. Many wildflower seeds need light to germinate, so burying them too far underground can stop them from growing.

6. Crumble it slightly if it is large.
If the seed bomb is big, break it apart a little before pressing it into the soil. This spreads the seeds out and gives more of them a chance to touch the ground. It also keeps too many seedlings from trying to grow in one crowded clump.

7. Water it well.
Water helps soften and break down the clay or compost around the seeds. It also gives the seeds the moisture they need to begin germinating. After that, keep the area lightly moist until things sprout. The soil should feel damp, not swampy.

8. Leave the mulch pulled back until the seedlings are established.
Once the seedlings are a few inches tall, you can carefully tuck a little mulch around them, but not over them. This helps hold moisture in the soil without smothering the baby plants.

9. Mark the spot.
Use a stick, stone, label, or little border so you remember where you planted them. This matters because tiny wildflower seedlings can look like weeds at first. Marking the spot helps you avoid pulling them up or mowing them down by accident.

10. Treat the whole thing as an experiment.
Seed bombs are not exact gardening. Some seeds may grow, and some may not. Weather, sun, soil, birds, squirrels, and timing all have opinions. The goal is to give the seeds a good chance, not to do it perfectly.

For my garden, the south side of the house along the neighbor’s driveway could work if it gets enough sun and will not be mowed. I should plant only some of the seed bombs there first and save a few for Dr. Cho’s or another bare sunny patch.

Best timing is spring or fall. Since I am planting now, it would be smart to do it before a rainy stretch. Rain will help break down the seed bombs and keep the soil moist.

Simple version:
Do not toss seed bombs on top of mulch unless I am just experimenting. For the best results, I should make little bare-soil pockets, scratch the soil, press the seed bomb in, water it, and keep the mulch away until the seedlings are growing.

For the sun flower seeds I am cutting out the bottom of the flimsy pots.  I am putting in the ground.  Adding soil and three seeds and a pencil.  The pot protects from the seeds getting eaten.

 I love the way Peanut, the purple flower, and the yellow flower looked in this picture. Summer must be amazing for Peanut because everywhere sprouts flowers that to him are probably as big as trees are to us. The purple flowers are dame’s rocket (Hesperis matronalis). They are considered invasive in Indiana and across much of the Midwest because they spread aggressively and can crowd out native spring wildflowers, which is probably why you do not really see people selling them openly.

The yellow flower, of course, is a dandelion. I do wonder how the purple flowers got there. 

One little identification note, just because it is useful: dame’s rocket has four petals, while garden phlox has five, which is one of the easiest ways to tell them apart. 

Indiana native plant sources often suggest downy phlox as a good alternative. (Indiana Native Plants Finder)

Star of Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum). They are a bulb plant that pops up in spring, and spread easily, sometimes even aggressively.  They are in my lawn as well but I don't mind as they are beautiful!   Aaron planted them about 25 years ago.   They are part of Aaron I do not mind keeping at my house!

Here are forget-me-nots (Myosotis). I know these are shade-friendly, they self-seed, and they give that soft, woodland feel that I really love.  I have planted some seeds along the new drainage stream. I hope they take!

Allium, an ornamental onion. These are bulbs that come back every year, and they feel structural , tall and very intentional-looking in the garden.  These are probably my favorite and I want to plant more in the fall!

The bright orange cluster flowers are wallflowers (Erysimum). I know they love the sun, have a long bloom time, and act as a strong color anchor in the space.  I would like to grow some more!  They grew from seeds I planted last summer. 

 I have a bulb backbone with the allium and Star of Bethlehem. I have self-seeding spreaders with the forget-me-nots. I also have a color anchor with the wallflowers.

I planted the flower that Stacia gave me as a gift and planted my other new plants along the drainage pathway: bleeding heart, astilbe, and hostas. I moved the other plant from the other side of my garden. Coral Bells

 Absolutely—here it is rewritten in your voice, clean and blog-ready, like a snapshot you could actually use while standing outside with your coffee and your shovel 🌿

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🌿 My Garden Plan — Simplified View

🌱 1. How I’m Thinking About the Layers

Layer	Purpose	Plants	Feeling I’m Creating
Back Row	Height + structure	Bleeding Heart, Astilbe, Anemone, Brunnera	Movement, softness, anchor
Mid Layer	Main visual body	Hosta, Heuchera	Fullness, color, texture
Front Edge	Softening + spill	Creeping Jenny, Ajuga	Flow, softness, cohesion
Details	Personality + surprise	Toad Lily, Foamflower	Curiosity, “lean in” moments

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🧩 2. How I’m Mapping It to My Space

Area	What I’m Planting	What I Want It to Feel Like
Left	Bleeding Heart, Astilbe, Hosta, Heuchera	Dense and established
Center	Astilbe, Hostas, Creeping Jenny, Woodruff	Blended and natural
Right	Anemone, Brunnera, Heuchera	Filled and balanced
Front	Ajuga, Creeping Jenny, Foamflower	Soft edge and finished look

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🌷 3. My Planting Timeline

Month	Focus	What I’m Doing
March	Prep	Cleaning, edging, loosening soil, adding compost
April	Structure	Planting Hostas, Heuchera, Brunnera, Bleeding Heart
May	Fullness	Adding Astilbe, Anemone, Foamflower

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🛒 4. How I’m Buying Everything (Phases)

Phase	What I’m Buying	Why It Matters
Phase 1	Bleeding Heart, Astilbe, Heuchera, Brunnera	This builds the bones
Phase 2	Ajuga, Creeping Jenny, Woodruff	This fills the gaps
Phase 3	Extra plants and fun varieties	This adds personality

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📦 5. My Plant Count

Category	Count
Back Row	8
Mid Layer	6
Ground Layer	12
Detail Plants	4
Total	30 plants

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🌿 6. My Reality Check

What I Expect	What It Means for Me
Year 1	A little spaced, intentional
Year 2	Full and lush
My goal	Let it grow into itself

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🌿 My Visual Planting Layout

(mapping it before I touch the soil)

I’m mapping my space in words first so I can really see it before I plant anything.

✨ My Layout Plan (top → bottom)

🌳 BACK ROW (against the fence)

This is my height and anchor layer.

I’m planting in loose clusters, not straight lines.

Left side:

• 2 Astilbe (pink or white)

Center (behind the rocks):

• 1 Bleeding Heart
  (this becomes my emotional centerpiece)

Right side:

• 2 Japanese Anemone

💡 I want soft plumes and movement here, not anything stiff or formal.

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🌿 MID LAYER (around and just behind the rocks)

This is my main visual body.

I’m planting in groups of three.

Left-mid:

• 3 Heuchera (mix of burgundy and lime)

Center (weaving into the rocks):

• 3 Hostas
  (slightly different sizes if possible)

Right-mid (filling that open space):

• 3 Brunnera

💡 I want these plants to touch the rocks. No gaps. They should feel like they belong there.

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🌱 FRONT EDGE (closest to me)

This is my softening layer.

Along the entire front border, I’m planting:

• Creeping Jenny (to trail over the edge)

• Ajuga (for those purple spikes and contrast)

I’m going to alternate them in little drifts instead of straight lines.

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🌸 SPECIAL DETAIL MOMENTS (my “Emma touches”)

This is where I get to add personality.

I’ll tuck in:

• 1–2 Toad Lilies (something unexpected, near the rocks)

• A few Foamflower clusters in the shadier pockets

These are my “lean in closer” plants. The ones you notice when you slow down.

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🧩 The Overall Feeling I’m Creating

I’m not going for spaced-out individual plants.

I want a woven, layered tapestry.

I want everything to feel like it is gently growing toward each other.

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🌷 My Month-by-Month Planting Plan

(Indianapolis timing)

This helps me keep it manageable and seasonal.

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🌱 MARCH (now → early April)

Goal: Clean and prepare

• Clear debris

• Define the rock edges

• Lightly loosen the soil (not overworking it)

• Add compost or garden soil where I’ll be planting

• Divide or move any existing perennials if needed

👉 Right now I am setting the stage, not rushing into planting.

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🌷 APRIL

Goal: Start planting the structure

I will plant:

• Hostas

• Heuchera

• Brunnera

• Bleeding Heart

💡 These can handle cooler temperatures and will start establishing early.

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🌸 MAY (after last frost, around mid-May)

Goal: Add fullness and personality

I will plant:

• Astilbe

• Japanese Anemone

• Foamflower

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This is starting to feel less like a project and more like a composition I am stepping into.

This is where I build the backbone of the garden.

• Bleeding Heart (‘Valentine’) → 1
• Astilbe (‘Bridal Veil’ white) → 1
• Astilbe (‘Fanal’ red) → 1
• Astilbe (‘Peach Blossom’ pink) → 1
• Japanese Anemone (‘Honorine Jobert’) → 2
• Brunnera (‘Jack Frost’) → 2

Subtotal: 8 plants

These give me height, movement, and seasonal variation.

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🌿 MID LAYER (my main body)

This is the structure that holds everything together visually.

• Hosta (‘June’) → 2
• Hosta (‘Halcyon’) → 1

(3 hostas total = my anchors)

• Heuchera (‘Caramel’) → 1
• Heuchera (‘Obsidian’) → 2

(3 heuchera total = color + texture)

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🌱 FRONT + GROUND LAYER (what makes it feel finished)

This is where the garden starts to feel full and intentional.

• Ajuga (‘Chocolate Chip’ or ‘Burgundy Glow’) → 6
• Creeping Jenny (‘Aurea’) → 3
• Sweet Woodruff → 3

These will spread over time, so this is enough to start.

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🌸 DETAIL / SURPRISE PLANTS

These are the little moments that make the garden interesting.

• Toad Lily (Tricyrtis) → 2
• Foamflower (Tiarella) → 2

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📦 TOTAL COUNT

• Back row: 8
• Mid layer: 6
• Ground layer: 12
• Detail plants: 4

Total: 30 plants

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🌿 How I’m Mapping This to My Space

LEFT SIDE (denser area)

• 1 Bleeding Heart
• 1 Astilbe (white)
• 1 Heuchera (Caramel)
• 1 Hosta
• 2 Ajuga
• 1 Creeping Jenny

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CENTER (around the rock stream)

• 2 Astilbe (red + pink)
• 2 Hostas
• 1 Heuchera (dark)
• 2 Creeping Jenny woven through the rocks
• 2 Sweet Woodruff
• 1 Toad Lily

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RIGHT SIDE (currently open → filling it in)

• 2 Japanese Anemone
• 2 Brunnera
• 1 Heuchera (dark)
• 2 Ajuga
• 1 Sweet Woodruff
• 1 Foamflower
• 1 Toad Lily

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FRONT EDGE (the finishing touch)

• 2 Ajuga
• 1 Creeping Jenny
• 1 Foamflower

I want these to spill gently toward me and soften the edge.

This is a perfect first-year density, not an instant full garden.

If I wanted it to look full immediately, I would double this list, but that would be:

• more expensive
• less natural long-term

What I am choosing instead is to let it grow into itself.

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🌿 If I Need to Simplify (backup plan)

If 30 plants feels like too much, I can scale back and still keep the structure:

• 1 Bleeding Heart
• 3 Hostas
• 3 Heuchera
• 3 Astilbe
• 6 Ajuga

That becomes my minimum viable garden (16 plants).

Garden Shopping Cart (Phase 1: Structure)

🌸 Core Plants (buy these first)

How many to buy:

• Bleeding Heart → 1 (your focal point)

• Astilbe → 2–3 (back row, soft height)

• Heuchera (Coral Bells) → 3 (front/mid color)

• Brunnera → 2–3 (right side filler)

💡 These are your bones. Everything else builds around them.

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🌿 🌱 Ground Layer (Phase 2: the magic)

How many:

• Ajuga → 4–6 small plants

• Creeping Jenny → 2–3

• Sweet Woodruff → 2–3

💡 These are what make your garden feel full instead of spaced out.

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🌿 🌼 Optional Add-Ons (Phase 3: personality)

These are your:

• "ooh I like that color" plants

• texture variation

• future expansion pieces

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🧠 How to Order (this matters more than what you buy)

🟢 Order 1 (now)

• Bleeding Heart

• Astilbe

• Heuchera

• Brunnera

👉 Plant these first → step back → observe

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🟡 Order 2 (2–3 weeks later)

• Ajuga

• Creeping Jenny

• Sweet Woodruff

👉 Fill the gaps after you see the structure

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🔵 Order 3 (optional, later)

• Extra heuchera / astilbe

• fun varieties

Dutch Iris

Every few years, when the clumps get crowded, I need to divide my Dutch iris. Late summer to early fall—August or September—is the best time here in Indianapolis, after the foliage has fully died back. I let the leaves yellow naturally so the bulbs can pull their energy back in. Then I lift the clumps gently with a garden fork, separate the bulbs and any offsets, and throw out anything shriveled, mushy, or rotted. I can either replant them right away about four inches deep or store them somewhere cool and dry until I'm ready.

Gladiolus

Gladiolus are a little different because the mother corm dies after blooming. I’m supposed to divide them every year, usually after the first frost in late October or early November, when the foliage browns. When I dig them up, I cut the foliage down to about an inch. I’ll find the dried-up mother corm to toss, the new corm or two that I'll replant, and smaller cormlets I can keep growing. The healthy corms need to cure for about a week in a cool, dry spot before I store them in paper or mesh bags or in something like peat moss or sawdust, at around 40–50°F in the dark. Then I plant them again in the spring, after the frost danger has passed.

What I Noticed in My Own Yard

Even though the general advice says gladiolus won’t survive winters in Zone 6, mine come back every other year. That tells me my conditions must be helping them overwinter. They might be deeper in the ground than most people plant them, or maybe leaves and mulch are protecting them. It’s also possible that new cormlets are maturing and coming up in place of the old ones. I could also have a hardier strain, or maybe they’re tucked into a warmer microclimate without me even realizing it.

Because they’ve returned in my yard, I feel better about planting them in the fall—especially in the same spots where I’ve seen them survive. To give them the best chance, I’ll plant them six to eight inches deep, mulch with leaves after the ground freezes, and avoid spots that get too wet.

What I’m Taking Forward

The “rules” may say one thing, but my garden keeps showing me what actually works. My Dutch iris will go on their usual fall schedule. And even though most people in my zone dig up gladiolus for winter, mine have already proven they can handle being left in the ground—at least in certain areas. I’m going to work with the conditions I already know are successful and trust the evidence I’ve seen with my own eyes.